As long as I’ve been cooking brains, I’ve stuck with brain fritters and hidden within casseroles. Though the idea of this blog is to force me to try new recipes. Either those that have been on my list for a while, or new ones entirely. (Do you have one to share?) Â This recipe definitely falls into the former category – it’s been on my list.
The history behind this meal
My mom grew up in a Portuguese immigrant household and had the privilege of being raised on organ meats and a traditional WAPF diet. Not that she sees it that way – despite her high cheekbones, broad nose, and full set of well-aligned teeth! She basically hates organ meats. She won’t eat them now, is suspect of everything served in my home (for fear they are hidden), and tells stories of hating them as a child.
Among these stories, is one about having to eat brains and scrambled eggs. She says my grandfather was always telling her that rich people ate them and she should enjoy them. Â Of course, he was a joker and would mix any dinner leftover with scrambled eggs and claim it was a special breakfast of an exotic cuisine. Â All the while, he’d adopt an accent from said country and pretend to serve it as such. Needless to say, she was not sold.
Portugal
When my mom was about 15 years old, her family drove their car from California across the US and took it on a boat across the Atlantic. They spent a year driving around Portugal so my mom and her two younger sisters could know the country.  I love this story and all the parts of it I’ve heard over the years. It was played off as an educational visit for the children. However, as the years passed, my grandfather confessed that this trip (during the escalating Bay of Pigs crisis) was actually intended to keep his family safe. He planned to stay in Portugal had the US ended up in a war situation.
Anyway, during this year of travel, they visited the island of Madeira (where my maternal grandmother was born). Here, they stayed in a fancy hotel on the island. Â Low and behold, right there on the menu, was brains and scrambled eggs. Â In fact, there were several variations using brains on the menu. My mom was devastated. Â Rich people did eat this food! Yuck! She was sure it had been one of her dad’s jokes. Needless to say, lamb, goat and pig brains are available from my grass-fed farmer for the bargain price of $5/pound – compared to a steak at $22/pound. I guess these days it’s for those who want to be rich in health and cognitive function!
Today, in my kitchen
So, as you can imagine, I’ve been meaning to make this recipe for some time. Â Most Mondays we end up having liver for dinner since I have a hard time getting enough of a good thing. Though I finally defrosted a little package of brains for this week. Low and behold, I found a version of brains and scrambled eggs to use as a guide in my trusty Innards and Variety Meats. The recipe that follows is adapted from there.
I defrosted the meat, I had been soaking it and changed the water several times that morning to eliminate any blood. Â I skipped a nap (sleep when the newborn baby sleeps!) to poach it while our babysitter Allison was picking up the other kids from school. And then my most supportive and will-eat-anything-except-rocky-mountain-oysters husband sent me a text saying he wasn’t game. Truthfully, I wanted to cry. Â It went something like this:
I wasn’t too confused. I feel like anything with so much butter and cream is bound to be delicious. Â Not to mention the herbs. And brains have such a nice texture. Plus, I had bacon as garnish. Â And a side of potatoes and kale with garlic waiting. Â Sigh.
In the end, I am happy to report that there were no leftovers! Win-win for mom and healthy growing peeps who didn’t even ask what was in it. (I think the bacon garnish helped.) Â I’m sure we’ll do it again. Â Next time I’ll probably just do the prep and ask my husband to serve it for breakfast during the week, reserving Monday night for something new (or more liver).
Ingredients
- 1/2 to 1 lb package of brains (goat, lamb or pig)
For poaching brains in advance
- 1 carrot, whole
- 2 sprigs parsley
- 2 sprigs thyme
- 1/2 t peppercorns
For cooking brains
- poached brains, chopped
- 2 T butter
- 1/4 c parsley, chopped
- 1/4 c green onion, chopped
- pinch of cayenne
- salt and pepper
For garnish
- 1/4 lb bacon, slices cut into strips
- cherry tomatoes (optional)
For finalizing with eggs
- 7 eggs
- 1/4 c cream
- salt
- 2 T butter
Instructions
- Trim any dark membranes from brains with a sharp knife or shears. Add brains to water to cover. Leave in fridge for at least 30 minutes to remove any blood. If soaking longer, after each 30 minute interval (or at your convenience) change water as necessary. Note that the brains are delicate and it's best to add them to water instead of filling water over them so they don't break apart.
- Place all poaching ingredients in a saucepan with enough water to cover, and add brains. Heat on medium. When you hear or see a gentle boil, turn to low to simmer. Remove any foam that may have risen. Simmer on low for 10-15 minutes, until brains have firmed up. Remove to cutting board to cool, or alternately (if you have more time) let cool in broth. (Strain broth through a sieve and reserve for soup or rice or some other goodness later in week.)
- While poaching, read ahead and prepare your mise en place for the remainder of the recipe.
- Fry bacon pieces and reserve.
- Beat the eggs and add cream and salt.
- After poaching, chop brains into fingernail sized pieces.
- Add 2 T butter to a medium saute pan on medium to medium high and when foaming subsides, add brains along with herbs, cayenne, salt and pepper. Stir all these ingredients together, but then leave for a few minutes so that brains can brown a bit before stirring again.
- Add remaining 2 T butter to pan, when foaming subsides, add egg mixture to brains and mix gently into a scramble.
- Serve with potatoes and some greens (optional).
Alex
We used to eat eggs and brains on the farm growing up. Our recipe was a lot simpler, eggs, brains, and a little salt cooked in bacon fat. Season with Tobasco to taste.
We did prepare the brains by soaking and removing the membrane. Our brains were always fresh (it was the traditional breakfast for the day after we slaughtered a critter, pretty much any critter (Cow, sheep, goat, pig, or even moose). I even made a Roman Brain Stew for my High School Latin Class.
Janine Farzin
@Alex thanks for sharing! Lucky for you to grow up with fresh brains! Tell me more about Roman Brain Stew…?
Chloe
I found your site thru WAPF and really enjoy it. Am not much of a cook so I mostly stick to liver and ground beef, but like reading your culinary adventures. Also, you and your mother are both beautiful. 🙂 Lucky her indeed to have grown up on proper human food.
Janine Farzin
Hi Chloe,
Thank you so much! And thank you for posting a comment! When you get your hands on more organs beyond liver, we’ll be here!! 😉
Warmly,
Janine