As far as legumes go, properly prepared lentils are relatively mineral-rich and easily-digested. Moreover, vitamins A and D in animal fats help mitigate some of the anti-nutrients found in legumes or other whole grains, nuts, and seeds. Buttered Lamb Kidneys with Greek Lentil Salad is a cozy pairing that celebrates and elevates each of these humble ingredients.
Anti-nutrients?
All plants and animals are going for successful reproduction. This includes seeds like lentils, along with whole grains, nuts and other legumes. There are a few strategies to maximize the likelihood of a new little lentil growing when it’s time.
First, everything required for new life – all the nutrients needed to grow a new grain/nut/seed – is bound up in a tidy package. This package is like an impermeable fortress, holding nutrients until the right time for regrowth. Second, given the opportunity, that clever packaging compound will bind to additional nutrients.
This, however, does not bode well for us. When we eat whole grains intact, it’s very difficult to extract nutrients. Worse, that seed package will actually bind to our minerals for it’s own use later on! Yep, that crafty grain/nut/seed can actively deplete our calcium, magnesium, iron, and zinc.
This clever packaging – called phytic acid – can also actively inhibit digestive enzymes needed to break down our food. Too much phytic acid in the diet can cause nutrient deficiencies, manifesting in tooth decay or other physical degeneration, and digestive disturbances.
Neutralizing phytic acid
Unless, of course, we trick the grain, nut or seed into thinking that it’s time for reproduction.
But when does our lentil know it’s time to germinate and ultimately reproduce? How does any whole grain, nut or seed know it’s time to grow anew? Imagine a ripe patch of rich soil, with a little rainfall and sun. And, as you may recall from Frog and Toad, a little bit of time and hard work. That would be just perfect.
A warm, moist and slightly acidic* environment will neutralize the phytic acid in most grains. We can mimic this process by either soaking, sprouting or souring our grains, nuts and seeds over many hours. (*Lentils do prefer an acidic environment, but note that some legumes actually prefer a slightly alkaline environment). In traditional cultures that have relied on these plant foods as staples, you will find one or all of these methods employed.
While lentils are low in phytic acid relative to most legumes, we do properly prepare them. Soak the lentils for most of the day before preparing the Greek Lentil Salad in this recipe.
Buttered Lamb Kidneys
Now that the nutrients are available, leave it to animal-based fat-soluble vitamins (read: butter) to help us to actually absorb these minerals. Finally, since legumes are not a complete protein, we need to pair them with whole grains or with an animal protein to ensure adequate protein. We go for the humble kidney.
Buttered Lamb Kidneys with Greek Lentil Salad was inspired by Chris Cosentino, who also pairs kidneys with lentils in his book Offal Good. I used one of my steadfast lentil salad recipes, properly prepared and garlic-infused. The savory Mediterranean flavors of this Greek Salad are familiar and summery. Yet, the buttery lamb feels so cozy, perfect for these beautiful fall days that have the first bit of crisp in the air.
Buttered Lamb Kidneys with Greek Lentil Salad
Notes
If you soak the lentils in the morning, they will be ready by mid-afternoon or early evening for preparing your salad.
Lentil Salad can be prepared a day or two in advance. (Though you might want to make a double batch if you expect it to last!)
Ingredients
For the lentils
- 1 c green or black lentils
- 1 T lemon juice
- 2 c broth (optional)
- 5 garlic cloves, smashed
- 1 bay leaf
- salt
For the lentil salad
- 5 T extra-virgin olive oil
- 3 T red wine vinegar
- 1 c chopped kalamata olives
- l1 small shallot, minced very small
- salt and pepper
- 1 oz feta cheese
For the kidneys
- 1-2 T butter
- 6-8 lamb kidneys
- salt
- reserved chopped mint leaves (optional)
Instructions
For the lentils
- Put lentils in a large pot or jar and fill with water. Squeeze half a lemon, or about a tablespoon into the water, and soak for at least 8 hours, but no more than 18. Drain lentils and rinse.
- Add soaked lentils, broth (or water), garlic cloves, and bay leaf to a pot. If broth is unsalted, add about half a teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer. Simmer for 20 minutes, covered, until tender but still intact. Check pot occasionally to make sure lentils are covered with broth and add a bit of water if not. Drain lentils well, pick out and discard the garlic cloves and bay leaf.
For the lentil salad
- Meanwhile, add olive oil and vinegar to a large bowl and whisk to emulsify. Add drained lentils, olives, mint, and shallot. Toss to combine. Taste for seasonings and add more salt and pepper as needed. Add a serving to each place, garnish with feta cheese, and reserve.
For the kidneys
- Warm butter in a pan on medium high heat. Remove any excess fat or filament layer from the kidneys. When foaming subsides in the pan, add half of the kidneys (or as many will fit comfortably in your pan) and cook for about 3 minutes, browning a bit. Flip them over and cook for another 2 or 3 minutes on the second side. Poke with a knife to confirm, but they should be cooked on the edges, but still a bit rare in the middle. If you have any browned or burnt butter in the pan, wipe clean with a paper towel. Add another knob of butter and repeat with remaining kidneys.
- Serve over lentils. Garnish with remaining chopped mint leaves. Enjoy while warm!
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