It wasn’t always this way. In the beginning, I had to force myself to finish a serving of liver. Week after week, I’d lovingly prepare this Italian Liver Piccata (adapted from Marcella Hazan in Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking), if not with some trepidation. Then I would serve it with confidence – if not a ‘fake it til you make it’ kind of confidence – to my family.
I had learned that organ meats are the foundation of a healthful diet, with liver being the most important. And I wanted a healthy family. But I didn’t grow up eating organ meats, and my mom had not said kind things about her own experience. Yet, my 100-year old grandmother (my best barometer of ‘food’ and food quality) served liver every week and still loves it. I knew it was the best way to fortify myself and my family; I had to get on board.
Here’s how it would go down:
Learning to love liver
First, for the remainder of the table, I would always serve desirable sides. We’d have creamed spinach, buttered carrots, along with rice or potatoes, that kind of thing – but not much on each plate. And of course you would have to finish your serving of meat to get more sides.
I might have also (deliberately?) forgotten snack at pick up that day, and planned on an early dinner. It helps when everyone is hungry. I would eat lightly that day myself, in preparation. No use spoiling my own liver dinner with a hearty (careless) lunch.
Though for me, sparkling water was truly my salvation. We don’t have many beverages in our home besides fresh milk and water, so this bottle became the centerpiece of the table on these evenings. One small cup for everyone, I would surreptitiously reserve most of the bottle for myself. Every bite I took, I would chew and chew… and chew. And then, hoping none of the kids were watching, I would gulp some sparkling goodness and swallow it all down.
Sometimes I would procrastinate coming to the table, dreading having to eat my liver, too. But eventually I would sit down, with my glass of sparkling water, and would stay put and skip the sides until I had dutifully finished my serving, same as I expected from my kids.
Validation
With time and patience, I have actually grown to enjoy liver. I love chicken liver tacos and this liver piccata recipe is now just another delicious meal in our home. No sparkling water required.
I was pleased to find out that the literature validates my tactics. Repeated exposure to food can help us develop an ‘acquired taste.’ Psycology Today says you need to eat a food at least 15 times before you can judge whether you like it or not. In addition to being persistent, they also say to mix an abhorred food with a preferred one (piccata, in this case), and to educate yourself. The more you know about nutrition, the more you may be motivated to try or stick with a new food.
So, why is liver so important?
Here’s the deal: we can only consume a fixed number of calories every day. If you believe, as I do, that we need solid nutrition to grow strong or stay healthy, then every calorie consumed is an opportunity for those nutrients. Empty calories are lost opportunities. And there is nothing more nutrient dense than organ meat.
“[Liver] contains a large amount of high-quality protein, an easily absorbed form of iron, all of the B vitamins (including B12 and folic acid in significant amounts), balanced quantities of vitamin A, many trace elements and minerals including copper, zinc, chromium, phosphorus, and selenium, essential fatty acids EPA, DHA, and AA, as well as the powerful antioxidant CoQ10,” describes Kayla Grossman.
And as much as I love my veggies, and I do, Chris Kessler sums it up best with his comparison of liver to apples, carrots and red meat. To say that liver comes out ahead is an understatement.
Fringe benefits
Plus, it’s usually the cheapest cut of meat – though that seems to be changing! Even still, few people are in the market these days. My favorite pastured and grass-fed animal farmers are selling filet mignon for a whopping $25-35/lb (worth every penny, I might add), but you can buy these nutrient-dense organs for $3-10/lb.
Finally, it’s an honest way to eat meat: respecting and eating the whole animal.
So along those lines, I’ve been cooking and serving it all – liver, kidneys, heart, tongue, brains, rocky mountain oysters, tripe, sweetbreads, wild fish roe (when my fishmonger would otherwise be throwing it out), and using all the heads and eyes and bones and skins (oh my!) for a while now. Do you enjoy these foods? Would you try them? Let me know in the comments below. Your growing peeps definitely need them. But let’s not kid ourselves, so do we.
Italian Liver Piccata
Ingredients
- 1 lb beef liver
- 3 T butter
- 1/4 c arrowroot flour
- salt and pepper
- Juice of 1/2 lemon
- 2 T chopped parsley
Instructions
- Cut liver into 1/4-1/2" slices. Ideally, it may have already come like this; you can request your butcher do this for you. Next, fastidiously trim or peel away the outer skin from the liver (because it will curl up and keep the liver from laying flat and cooking evenly in the pan). Cut away any large tubes running through the meat.
- Prepare your mise en place: saute pan with several tablespoons butter nearby and ready, fresh squeezed lemon juice in a cup, chopped parsley in a ramekin, salt and pepper grinder on hand, plate or pasta bowl with arrowroot starch (or flour), and an extra plate/platter ready for the finished meat. This whole operation goes pretty quickly (less than 5 minutes), so have your sides finished in advance and everything ready for cooking as listed above.
- Add half the butter to a hot pan on medium-high/high heat. As it's melting, dip the liver into the arrowroot so that it's covered on each side and rest on a plate. Just as the foaming of the butter subsides in the pan (or your fat is shimmering), lay the strips of liver without crowding.
- Wait – do not touch! – so it will brown on at least one side making for a decent presentation. After ~1 minutes (depending on thickness of liver), use tongs to pick up the strips and flip them over, generously seasoning with salt and pepper on the browned side. After another 30 seconds or so, remove liver from pan and season second side.
- Into the pan goes the lemon juice and the remainder of the butter to scrape up the browned bits. After the butter melts, return the liver back to the pan for just a moment. Swirl it all around to cover with the syrupy lemon butter. Pour liver and all of the juices out onto a plate or platter and garnish with parsley.
- Serve with sparkling water.
Melanie Sakowski
Your website is amazing- I’m so glad I found it after curiously looking into pork kidneys because I quite like chicken kidneys. Also: liver prepared in the Filipino adobo style: (soy sauce, vinegar, bay leaf, black peppercorns, lotsssss of onion and garlic) is my favourite way to eat liver👌🏻
Janine Farzin
@Melanie Sakowski a belated thanks so much! I had seen an adobo liver recipe like that in Cate Shanahan’s Deep Nutrition many years ago (with a few fewer ingredients if i recall correctly) and remember liking it. Thanks for reminding me!
Melissa
I love the simplicity of this recipe! On my first bite, I thought that it didn’t even taste like liver. So yummy!! Another keeper. Thank you!
Janine Farzin
Melissa! A girl after my own heart. Thank you for being here and for trying this recipe! I’m so glad you enjoyed it. 🙂 Even after all these years, this may still be my favorite liver recipe!
xo,
Janine