I’ve cooked Pozole a few times, and Menudo dozens of times, but just recently realized how similar they are. In short, you’ve got a rich broth, flavored with toasted chiles, topped with some fresh condiments. Where Pozole uses the pigs head for the rich broth (and hominy), Menudo uses marrow, trotters, and tripe.
Of course, this whole sentiment is probably sacrilegious to connoisseurs of Mexican cuisine. There are probably deeper differences about the preferred chili varieties and quantities, not to mention regional variations. And I imagine that there are cultural influences about serving one over the other. Though I have no idea what they may be. Please tell me in the comments if you have any insights to share!
As a side benefit, you get the nutrient-packed broth with collagen, minerals, and likely some fat-soluble vitamins from the skin, bones, eyes (and possibly brain, if it’s in there). Thanks to Rick Bayless for teaching me about these treasured foods; this recipe is adapted from his version in Authentic Mexican.
The field corn and making hominy
First, the field corn must be nixtamalized to make hominy. This simple step requires soaking dry field corn in slaked lime, also known as cal in Spanish. It’s a white powdery substance, technically calcium oxide, that becomes calcium hydroxide when mixed with water.
Nixtamalization occurs when the field corn, or maize, soaks in the calcium hydroxide. The alkaline solution removes the outer hull of the field corn, which leaves you with hominy after washing.
Nixtamalization is the first step in all traditional recipes (that I’ve seen) using field corn, including tortillas and tamales. It increases the bioavailability of niacin, vitamin B3, and makes the corn easier to digest.
Speaking of tortillas, notice my tortilla makers in the background here. The pig’s head is cooling so I can take off all the skin and meat. This will all be chopped and added back to the soup.
A large batch of Pozole
The original recipe calls for half of a small (about 4 pounds) pig’s head, but in this case, we had to work with something a bit larger. My farmer had texted me an opportunity I couldn’t refuse earlier in the week.
In this case, the pig’s head came in at 9 lbs and was not halved. It’s really no joke to cut through a skull at home though. I’ve done it once with a cleaver on a much smaller goat head. Without a band saw, I am not up for doing it again any time soon!
In fact, to accommodate Wilbur, I actually opted to buy a new pot rather than attempting to split it. I did request that future heads get halved, but in the meantime, I am now the proud owner of a 24-quart stockpot. But I can’t complain, I like to stockpile and to share. As you can see, I had enough Pozole for both!
Shortcuts
Don’t despair though, if you don’t have a pig’s head, or a pot large enough to accommodate one, you could cheat and use trotters and some meaty neck bones instead. Then again, I think it’s a sweet spot to be taking the unwanted extras from my pastured farmers. 😉
Ingredients
For the soup
- 1.5 lbs dried field corn
- 2 T slaked lime, or cal
- 1/2 small pig's head, scrubbed (or ~4 pounds trotters and meaty neck bones)
- 1 lb pork shoulder (optional)
- 1 small head garlic
- 4 oz dried chiles, including guajillos, anchos, and/or New Mexico chiles
- salt
For the condiments
- 2 c thinly sliced cabbage
- 1-2 bunches radishes
- 1 onion, diced
- 1/2 bunch cilantro, chopped
- dried oregano
- 2 limes, cut into wedges
- tortillas or tortilla chips
Instructions
- Measure 2 quarts water in a large noncorrosive pot, add the slaked lime and bring to a boil. Stir to dissolve the lime and pour in the corn. Strain out any chaff or corn that is immediately floating in the water as it comes back up to a boil. Once boiling again, reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat, let it stand for another 10 minutes, then drain the corn into a colander. Wash the corn by rubbing in your hands for about 5 minutes, until the outer husk has all been removed and when you (drain and) rinse, you don't see any more flakes of outer husk coming off the corn. Optional: pick the pointed dark end of each kernel off (removing the germ end of the corn), allowing the hominy to splay into a flower when cooked.
- Add the hominy, pig's head and optional pork shoulder to a pot. Cover with water, bring to a boil and remove any foam/impurities from the surface. After you've removed any impurities, add the garlic and lower to a simmer. Cook until the corn is tender, at least an hour.
- Meanwhile, when the corn is tender, heat a cast iron pan or griddle and heat up chili pieces: lay them on the pan and press down with a metal spatula until they brown or blister. Then flip and do the same on the other side. They should be fragrant. Remove these pieces to a small bowl and cover with boiling water, while keeping them submerged. I usually use a pasta/salad bowl and set a small dessert plate on top that sinks down and keeps the chiles covered. Soak for 30 minutes and drain.
- Place the drained chiles in a blender jar, along with a couple ladles of broth. Blend until smooth, then pour through a medium-mesh sieve into the soup pot. Add more liquid to blender jar to get all the remains out and into the sieve. I like to push through the sieve with the back of the ladle in a circular motion to get all the juices out, and then scrape the bottom of the sieve with a spatula to get as much chili as possible into the soup.
- Season the soup with salt, at least a tablespoon, and let simmer another hour or so.
- To finish the soup, remove the pigs head and optional pork shoulder. Let rest until cool enough to handle. Save everything you can - all of the skin, softened connective tissue, fat or meat (discarding bones and any tough pieces of cartilage) - and chop all into small pieces. Return all of this to the pot. Reseason the soup and let simmer a few minutes to reheat all the meat pieces.
- Serve the soup in bowls and garnish with generous portions of cabbage, radish, onion and cilantro. Pass additional garnishes and serve with tortillas or chips for dipping.
Jon Ritchie
Why not save the water the chiles steep in?
Janine Farzin
Great question. I hadn’t considered it before. Probably just because it’s really bitter. I wish you had asked me last week! I literally just met Rick Bayless at a Dia de los Muertos party on Saturday, I would have asked him!
Meredith Casto
I’ve asked my butcher to halve our pig’s head to make this soup! It won’t be skin-on, but I’ll take it! Question: I can’t eat any grain, so hominy isn’t an option for me. I read that buckwheat grits would be a good alternative. (I’m sure it’s sacrilegious, but I would like to be able to enjoy it with my family.) Any thoughts on this alternative, or any better suggestions?
Janine Farzin
Hi Meredith,
haha – I’m sure it is sacrilegious to use something other than hominy – but I say make it your own and enjoy every bit of it! I’m sure there are as many nuances to pozole as there are kitchen in Mexico! 🙂 Yep – if you can use buckwheat, go for it. And of course, you don’t have to use any grain at all – you can enjoy a soup of the meat bits and rich broth all on its own anytime. Often, I keep the grains out of soup altogether – like making a pot of rice on the side and serving the soup over the rice depending on who wants some. Good luck with the buckwheat and I hope you all enjoy it!
In the meantime, keep poking around for skin-on (it really is more gelatinous), but I’ll appreciate with you that you can even access the head (and keep it from the wastebin!). Good for you! Let me know how it goes! 🙂
xo
Janine