When I learned that traditional cultures included some of their animal foods raw, it made sense to me. But it still seemed very foreign. I grew up in a home with well-done steaks and London Broil cooked all the way through. Yet, after I leaned into this idea, I realized that cultures the world over still enjoy raw meats and it wasn’t as odd as it originally seemed. One of the easiest appetizers to adopt in our home was Steak Tartare.
Steak Tartare
I’ve read dozens of recipes for tartare over the years, and tried many.
There are as many variations as there are recipes. Make it your own. Some include tobasco or hot sauce. Worchestershire is common. Chopped beets as well. Nearly all include cornichons; yet we only have fermented pickles in our home – so we sometimes use those. I love anchovies, so it’s easy for me to add an extra (reducing or omitting salt in the end).
On this site, I previously posted Heart Tartare (another favorite). Other raw meat favorites include Weeknight Carpaccio (also pictured above), Vietnamese Pho, Simple Raw Meatballs, Ceviche (3 ways), and of course Liver Tonic.
Expert Opinion
Alice Waters notes, “While a large portion may be a little too rich, served in small portions as a stand-up hors d’oevre with drinks, or paired with a garden lettuce salad as an informal first course, steak tartare is just right.”
I agree. I also feel that the energy of spring calls for vitalizing (raw) foods – awaking us from the comfort food of winter.
In his book French Roots, Jean-Pierre Moulle notes “With four teenage boys to feed, my mother must have known how the carnality of eating raw, highly seasoned meat sated our monster appetites.”
I slipped a daughter into our mix of four – but every time I’ve read the above quote, I feel it is a small window into our own approaching teenage years. Alas, they are just beginning and Steak Tartare is still a popular choice. 😊
Notes
I prefer to start with frozen tenderloin, placing it in the fridge for just a few hours before I intend to prepare tartare. Else, if you tenderloin has been in the fridge, I recommend placing it in the freezer for about 15 minutes (set a timer so you don't forget!) before you start working with. Chilled meat (and a sharp knife) go a long way to making clean cuts and easy work of breaking down the meat.
Ingredients
- 12 oz tenderloin, partially frozen
- 3 anchovy filets, chopped fine
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- 1 shallot, diced
- 1 T capers
- 1 T dijon mustard
- 1 egg yolk
- 1 T olive oil
- 1 T parsley, chopped
- 1 T chives, chopped
- Lettuce or toasted bread for serving (optional)
- salt and pepper
Instructions
- Slice, chop, then mince the tenderloin - working quickly. Place in a bowl and return to refrigerator to chill while other ingredients are prepped. Alternately, keep chilled and prepare the meat after you've readied all other ingredients.
- Prepare your mis en place. Chop and reserve anchovies, garlic, shallot, parsley and chives.
- In a small bowl, mix egg yolk, olive oil, and mustard.
- When you're ready to serve, combine meat with anchovies, garlic, shallot and oil mixture. Add parsley and chives, reserving some for garnish. Stir well and season with salt and pepper.
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