Sumac Brain Fritters
Nowruz Mobarak! Happy Iranian New Year!
Today is the vernal equinox; the first day of the Iranian calendar (year 1398) and the first day of spring here at home.
After a warm introduction, the Iranian New Year has become one of my favorite holidays. The solar calendar resonates with me and I love any opportunity to bring many of my favorite Persian foods and spices to our table.
In anticipation, this week we spiced up our Monday night organ meat dinner with Sumac Brain Fritters!
My first Nowruz
My affection for Nowruz stems from my first celebration of it. A Persian colleague of my husband invited us to their home for a traditional meal and celebration. We had a dinner of fried fish, kuku (like a sort of frittata) with beet greens and fresh herbs, and saffron rice. This is a meal I have replicated each year in our own home, complete with Homa’s recipe for kuku that I acquired that evening.
They had generously bought a wooden train set as a Nowruz gift for our young son. While we could see snow from their window over the park and covering the edges of the icy lake, their home was warm and bright. Fragrant hyacinths as well as (at least some!) of the half sin (seven S’) were offered on a table in the family room.
That evening we laughed for so long, over and over. Eventually, I tucked into a back bedroom where our son had fallen asleep hours earlier. My husband and Farid turned on Bananas, watching nearly until dawn. Spontaneously, we ended up staying the night.
With this warm memory and such delicious food, who wouldn’t love this holiday?
Sumac and the half sin or seven S’
Plus, there are many delightful holiday customs from which to choose.
In anticipation, my husband’s cousin routinely builds a bonfire to jump over, inviting all his kids’ friends to participate! Thirteen days after Nowruz, end the celebrations by spending the day outside with a picnic.
Another is gathering around a table with each of the seven S’ at the precise time of the equinox. The S’ (in Farsi) include sprouted wheat or lentils, a sweet pudding called samanu, Persian olives, vinegar, apple, garlic, and sumac.
Sumac!
As Najmeih Batmanglij notes,
Sumac is one of the favorite flavorings for Persian cooking… It is kept in the kitchen and on the table, along with salt and pepper.
Sumac is prized as a digestive, and even more prized as a pleasantly astringent souring agent: Iranians prefer its taste to that of lemon. It adds distinction to bread, marinades, soups, and khoreshes [stews], among other dishes. It is also delicious when sprinkled on kababs or onion salads, or mixed with yogurt.
Sumac Brain Fritters
This post was inspired by and adapted from Jennifer McLagan’s Sumac-Encrusted Lamb’s Brain. Sumac has been on my mind with Nowruz around the corner.
We made two versions – one with arrowroot and one with breadcrumbs – to see if a gluten-free version would hold up as well. The breadcrumb version has a bit more crunch on the outside, giving way to the custard-y center, which I preferred. However, the spices were the star of the dish and both versions were well received in our home. These are similar to – but creamier than – sweetbread fritters.
Clockwise: Slicing poached brains, marinating in lime juice, and breading (arrowroot and breadcrumbs) for frying
Nowruz Mobarak!
Pause today to celebrate Nowruz.
The winter days of scarcity are giving way to the abundance of spring.  The bird migrations up Lake Michigan are picking up and there is evidence all over the city. (Cheeeeer, cheeeer.) Longer days wake up our energy and renew our spirit.
Abundance and renewed spirit provide opportunities to follow your heart strings! Keep your energy alive this year with a steady diet of organ meats – starting with Sumac Brain Fritters!
Lamb’s brains with sumac
Notes
Prep and cook time does not include 1 - 1.5 hours to soak and poach brains.
Ingredients
- 1 lb lambs brains, soaked and poached.
- salt
- zest of 1 large or 2 small limes
For marinade
- juice of 1 large or 2 small limes
- 1/8 t salt
- pinch pepper
- 1 T olive oil
For breading
- 2 t sumac
- 1/2 t crushed rose petals (optional)
- 1/2 t chile powder
- 1/4 t salt
- 1/2 c breadcrumbs or arrowroot
For the fritters
- 4 T ghee
Instructions
Prepare the brains
- Soak brains in cold water in the refrigerator for 30 minutes by adding them to bowl already filled with water. Pour off water carefully and reserve brains. Optionally, repeat.
- Bring 1 quart of water and 2 t salt to a boil over high heat. When water boils, lower heat to medium and gently place brains into pot. Temperature should allow water to ripple, but not have any vigorous simmering action. Cook until brains are still pink in the center, about 10-15 minutes. They should be firm on the outside when poked, but custardy in the middle. (You can prepare your recipe up to this point a day in advance. Cool the brains on a towel or in an ice bath, and return to your poaching liquid after it has cooled. Refrigerate until ready to use. Reserve poaching liquid as this can be added to soup or used to cook rice.)
For the marinade
- Zest the lime(2) and reserve zest for next breading step. (Zest will not be used in the marinade.)
- Dry soaked and poached brains. Cut into quarters or into 1/2" slices.
- Squeeze your lime(s) into a mixing bowl. Add salt and whisk until salt has dissolved. Add a pinch of pepper and olive oil and whisk together.
- Gently add cut lambs pieces or slices to marinade and let rest while you prepare breading.
For the breading
- In a bowl, mix your reserved lime zest (if you'd like hold back just a bit more for garnish) with sumac, rose petals, chile powder and salt. Add either breadcrumbs or arrowroot powder. Stir to combine.
For the fritters
- Heat half of the ghee in a pan on low. Meanwhile, remove brain pieces or slices from the marinade and dip each into the breading until well-coated. Reserve on a plate as you bread all of the brain pieces.
- When ready to cook, turn heat to medium, wait for oil to heat up until a drop of breading will fizzle in ghee. Add fritters and brown on each side, about 2 minutes each.
- Garnish with optional lime zest and serve warm!
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