Long-simmered and tender Tripe with White Beans is inspired by Marcella Hazan’s Honeycomb Tripe with Parmesan Cheese. I had previously processed and prepared the tripe with vinegar and salt, as I describe here. The remaining ingredients are nearly all pantry staples.
Hazan describes tripe in such an appealing way. “At one time tripe was so popular that restaurants used to specialize in it, preparing it in a score or more of of different ways. One of the reasons it has becomes such a rare item may be that people no longer know how to prepare it. When you know how to go about it, tripe rewards you with tenderness so succulent, and a fragrance so appetizing, that more expensive cuts of meat cannot match.”
How to achieve “a tenderness so succulent, a fragrance so appetizing”
First, due to the high density of connective tissue in the stomach, slow and low cooking is required to break down the collagen. In step 2 below, you’ll notice that the collagen layers contract. But over time (step 5), these layers will relax. Harold McGee explains this breakdown of collagen. “Continued gentle simmering… will dissolve the tough, contracted collagen into gelatin and give the flesh a silken succulence.”
At this point, Hazan notes that you should be able to cut through the tripe with a utensil. “The tripe is tender enough to be cut easily with a fork and has an agreeably chewy consistency when tasted.”
Second, don’t skimp on the fat in the recipe. Tripe is the lowest fat of the organs (along with gizzard), and has less cholesterol than any other organ by equal weight. The fat in this dish improves the flavor and lends the expected texture. When added at the end, it acts as a seasoning. Finally, it carries the nutrients for easier absorption.
Finally, Samin Nosrat, in her cookbook Salt Fat Acid Heat, explains how the butter itself provides a fragrance so appetizing. “Fat coats the tongue, allowing various aromatic compounds to stay in contact with our taste buds for longer periods of time, intensifying and prolonging our experience of various flavors.” Voila!
Serving tripe at home
This recipe has a long cooking time, but most of the work is done for you after you get it going. I actually prepared the bulk of this dish over the weekend – up through step 5. Then, I finished it up in 10 minutes on Monday evening for dinner.
One of my munchkins actually picked out all the pieces of tripe, left everything else on her plate, and coyly asked for more. You’ll never know what they’ll enjoy unless you try serving it!
Long-simmered and tender Tripe with White Beans
Ingredients
- 1 c dried white beans
- 1 stick kombu (optional)
- 1.5 lbs tripe
- 8 T butter
- 1 onion, chopped
- 1 stick of celery, chopped
- 1 carrots, chopped
- salt
- 4 garlic cloves, chopped
- 1 T chopped parsley, plus some for garnish
- 1 T chopped fresh rosemary (1/2 as much if dried)
- pinch dried chili flakes
- pinch of pepper
- 1 28 oz can whole tomatoes, chopped (or a can of chopped tomatoes)
- 1 c chicken or beef broth
- 1/2 c grated Parmigiano Reggiano or pecorino cheese, plus some for garnish
Instructions
- Soak beans overnight in at least a quart of water. Drain and transfer to pot. Add stick of kombu and enough water to cover the beans by at least a couple of inches. Bring to a boil, lower heat to a simmer and skim off any foam. Simmer while preparing tripe, about 2-2.5 hours, until tender. When you pour off beans, reserve a cup of cooking liquid.
- Assuming the tripe is ready to use, rinse well. Cut into strips 1/2 inch wide by about 1-2 inches long. In a pot, cover with a couple inches water and bring to a boil. Skim any foam and simmer on medium for 10 minutes. Pour through a colander to drain water.
- Choose a heavy-bottomed pot that will fit the tripe and beans. Add 6 T butter (reserving the remaining 2T), then the chopped onion, celery, and carrots. Cook for about 10 minutes, until tender. Season with salt, then add chopped garlic, parsley, rosemary, chili flakes, and a few twists of pepper. Cook for another minute or two until the garlic is fragrant.
- Add the cut up tripe to the pot and stir well. Cook for about 5 minutes so it all gets to know one another. Add the chopped tomatoes with all the liquid in the can, and the broth. Bring everything to a boil, then reduce to a good simmer.
- Cover the pot and cook for 2-3 hours. The tripe should be tender and easily cut with a utensil (like your wooden spoon or a fork) when it is done. Check in on it a few times. If the liquid is low, add some broth or water. If there is too much liquid, set the lid aside until it cooks down a bit.
- When the tripe is very tender, add the beans with about a half cup of their cooking liquid. (Else, if you are using canned beans, drain the beans and add a little water.) Cook for another 10 minutes, stirring occasionally to mix everything, warm the beans through, and to match your desired consistency.
- Swirl in the remaining 2T butter and grated cheese into dish, leaving a bit of cheese for garnish. Garnish with parsley as well, and serve.
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